How to smoke a true Central Texas style brisket

Who needs sauce, really?

Though Austin is home to a large number of vegans, vegetarians, semi-vegetarians, and would-be meat eaters operating under a sadly mistaken assumption that cattle production pokes holes in the ozone layer, that doesn't stop us from being one of the barbecue hot-spots of the world.

That hasn't stopped the Austin City Council from (perhaps inadvertently) stomping out our blazing market for smoked meats. While we don't predict such proposed ordinances will ever go far (Austin is home to the world's only known barbecue editor, after all), a shortage of barbecue would be one of the worst scenarios imaginable to a Texan. And that would be a loss to the entire world, as Central Texas is home to its own unique style of 'cue, up there with Kansas City style, Carolina, Memphis, etc.

That's why we would like to arm you with the skills necessary to become a barbecue ninja! Follow these instructions and you'll master the art of smoking a true Texas Hill Country style brisket that will wow your neighbors and convert vegetarians.
Preparation: Never be in a hurry. This ain't New York. You're on Texas time. Make it a social event -- clearing out five to six hours or so to prepare a 10 lb. brisket. During a televised sporting event is a great time to do this, or perhaps as a "guy's activity" during a kid's birthday party or family holiday.

Equipment: An indirect heat barrel-type smoker is recommended (see picture). However, there are a variety of smokers on the market, and installed in parks and backyards, that can also do the trick. What you mainly need is an indirect fire pit and good air flow.

You'll also want a good pair of tongs, heat resistant gloves or oven mitt you don't mind getting dirty, and a bucket of water nearby in case you start a fire on the ground. A large plastic lid or something to fan the flames with will also come in handy.

Meat: You can get by with a grocery store brisket, but make sure you pick one with about a quarter-inch of fat. Fat keeps the brisket moist (more on that later).

There are plenty of meat markets around Austin which carry the freshest cuts. Carnicieras are also good sources, but be prepared to speak some Spanish if you don't already. A 10 lb. brisket will feed a family for a meal or two.

Conditioning: Rub both sides of the brisket (do NOT trim the fat!) a few hours before smoking. The secret to the Central Texas style is incredibly simple: black pepper. Some people swear by certain "rubs" (usually consisting of onion powder and paprika) and that's fine. Others prefer to brine or marinade a brisket for days before, which is also effective. But to get that distinctive "bark" you'll want a generous layer of pepper around the entire brisket. You'll thank yourself later. And if you do it right, you won't even want to douse it with barbecue sauce.

Ignition: Don't skimp on this step. Start with a layer of newspapers or Battleground Texas mailers, and pile on some wood chips. If you're not handy with an axe, then you can buy wood chips at most grocery stores.

Once the basic flame is started, add the main wood (apple, mesquite, oak, pecan -- anything from a deciduous tree) on top.

Sidenote: Adding a layer of charcoal birquets is also a common practice, but purists would cringe at the thought. This brings up the discussion of whether to use lighting fluid. Again, a purist would cringe, and some barbecue experts swear by parafin wax starters. The main thing to remember here is that you don't want your brisket tasting like lighting fluid.

Before you light, start adding smaller pieces of wood, arranged in a tee-pee shape (2-4-inch wedges should do nicely), and work your way up to larger log segments. Make sure the draw is open so you get plenty of oxygen to feed the flame. And light away!

Cooking heat: You'll want to start cooking the brisket once you see glowing coals underneath a slowly diminishing flame. This may take up to an hour.

Searing in the juices: Place the brisket over the flame, about 15 minutes per side, to seal (or sear) the exterior of the brisket. This traps the juices inside for the next phase.

Bring on the smoke: Move the brisket away from the firebox and place it on the grill -- fatty side up -- in "the smoking section." Try placing it underneath the smokestack or somewhere not near the firebox. Close the lid, and wait for the temperature to rise to between 230 and 270 degrees F. You'll want to check the temp every half-hour or so, and stoke the fire, add more logs, etc., as necessary. Turn the brisket every two hours until done.

Tip: the fat is what true barbecue connoisseurs call "the flavor." By placing it up during the first hour or two, the flavor drips down into the rest of the brisket and prevents dryness. 

Another tip: a foil pan full of water underneath the grill where the brisket rests will maintain moisture inside the smoke chamber and keep the brisket from becoming chewy. 

Pro-tip: an electronic remote thermometer allows you to keep an eye on the brisket while you do your thing around the yard or the house. Make sure the probe is not poked inside of the brisket (which would allow juices to escape) but it placed on top of the brisket. It's there to monitor the temperature inside the smoke chamber and not the inside of the brisket.

Sop: Here's some fun. Go inside and find some vinegar (and some Shiner Bock if you prefer -- and if no one objects!), some onion juice (or minced onion) and a spray bottle. Mix with a dash of water and this will be your "sop bottle." Spray down the brisket with the sop mixture once an hour or so. It's fun to experiment with different recipes of sop to create your own unique barbecue taste and texture.

Final inspection: Now for the moment of truth. Does the exterior look burned beyond belief? Good -- that's the coveted "bark." Wearing some heat-resistant gloves (or being very, very careful with a knife and a pair of tongs) cut off a tiny piece. What you'll be looking for is a "smoke ring," which is a pink-ish layer right underneath the bark. The inside of the brisket should be light brown.

Resting: After removing the brisket, let it rest for 10 or 20 minutes. The brisket will be VERY hot, and some say this time allows the meat to finish cooking on the interior.

Carving: Separate what's known as the "web portion" away from the flat end. Cut each portion against the grain and make quarter-inch slices. Bonus points if it's so tender you can't make a neat slice!

Remember: Practice makes perfect! If you burn your first one, don't worry. You'll have a better handle on how to avoid overcooking the next time.